After I heard there was a fine-dining restaurant inside the thirty fourth Avenue-Herald Sq. Subway station a part of me was excited in regards to the idea, however I’ve to confess that I used to be skeptical of Nōksu, too.
I briefly lived in Tokyo, the place I discovered solace in restaurants in subway stations. Although I briefly questioned why New York hadn’t tailored an identical idea, a laundry record of the reason why not instantly adopted. Tokyo subway stations are a bit cleaner than New York’s, to understate issues. And, talking in generalities, Japanese commuters are usually extra orderly than New Yorkers, so Tokyo’s subway stations usually really feel secure and calm, whereas right here… properly, want I say extra?
Apart from being in a New York Metropolis subway station, Nōksu selected the outdated barber store area on the thirty fourth Avenue-Herald Sq. station, including slight insult to harm. My expertise at Nōksu, nonetheless, turned out to be a pleasant reminder that leaping to conclusions too quickly can lead you to disclaim your self one thing nice.
Getting a reservation at Nōksu is barely difficult, so after I noticed one up for grabs, I snagged it. Tremendous eating isn’t usually my jam, however the reservation occurred to fall on an evening I used to be celebrating, so I concluded the universe was telling me to deal with myself. Twist my arm, universe.
My good friend and I walked down the thirty second Avenue stairs and instantly noticed a black door with easy gold letters studying: Nōksu. A code is required to enter, which diners obtain in a textual content the day of their reservation. Although it provides to the hidden eating gem expertise, it’s additionally for safety. Name it a gimmick or not, however it completely provides to the unique expertise.
On the opposite aspect of the door is a full-service restaurant that seems like a secret, stylish membership — the polar reverse of the rat race within the Herald Sq. subway station (no pun supposed). Should you don’t gasp somewhat or on the very least smile upon going from the subway station to Nōksu, you may be lifeless inside.
Nōksu is run by Chef Dae Kim, a 29-year outdated Korean native who moved to Chicago when he was 14, and bought his first job within the kitchen at 17 as a dishwater at Ria in Chicago’s Waldorf Astoria Resort. There, he ultimately labored his means as much as line cook dinner, earlier than graduating to work for Chef Thomas Keller at Per Se. From there, he moved onto Silver Apricot earlier than lastly opening Nōksu in October 2023.
Chef Kim’s tenacity and precision reveals in each meticulous plate at Nōksu. The bar was set excessive with my first chunk of the night time, which was brown crab. Not solely was the presentation nearly too delicate for somebody as clumsy as me, however the crab was so buttery it hardly required chewing.
With a complete of 11 programs, naturally, some dishes weren’t as memorable as others. As somebody who doesn’t regularly attend tasting menu-styled eating, I needed to protect the reminiscence of every dish to make sure I bought probably the most out of my time there. As a substitute, I selected to loosen up. I like to recommend experiencing Nōksu the way in which I did: having fun with the journey, savoring each dish with out reservations and letting Chef Kim information the journey from course one to eleven.
For me, that paid off, particularly with the damaged rice course. It was so creamy, I used to be satisfied it was impressed by Italian risotto, however was promptly corrected that it’s extra like congee, or Chinese language rice porridge. It’s lined in a veil made with parmesan and potato which makes it resemble a black truffle.
A dish I used to be significantly excited to attempt was the squab, one of many few non-seafood dishes on the menu. The meat is glazed, dry aged, smoked, then basted with sizzling oil and fried. All elements of the squab are served, together with the gizzard and head, which you’re inspired to devour. The meat itself is wealthy, nearly like duck, however gamier. Should you’ve ever walked by Chinatown, the presentation of this dish is clearly impressed by the hanging ducks of Canal Street, and the glistening glaze is unmistakably akin to that of a Peking Duck.
Whereas the gorgeous plates and delicate fish made me a fan of Nōksu, the squab is what made me perceive Nōksu. It’s immigrant meals meets New York sophistication… all behind a closed subway station door.
Deal with: 49 W thirty second St, New York, NY 10001 (entry at thirty second and Broadway 34 St Herald Sq. Station)
Cellphone: (626) 657-8420
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Closed Sunday and Monday
Costs: $195 for 11-course tasting menu
No takeout, no supply. Reservations required through Resy.
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