Overview
As Sydney’s Little India, Harris Park in Parramatta is the town’s go-to for truly authentic Indian fare. Nonetheless, lately, the CBD’s satellite tv for pc suburbs have produced among the most progressive Indian diners on the town — the likes of Foreign Return and Don’t Tell Aunty in Surry Hills, and the excellent however sadly not too long ago closed Raja in Potts Level.
The most recent addition to those pioneering up to date curry homes is Madam Ji in Darlinghurst, which has taken over the storied spot on Burton Avenue as soon as occupied by Pocket Bar — one of many authentic vanguard of small bars that flourished after NSW’s licencing legal guidelines have been amended in 2017.
Providing a menu that mixes tried-and-true favourites alongside radical fusions, this vibrant addition to Darlo’s thriving eating scene is able to welcome these seeking classics like butter hen and biryani, in addition to epicurean adventurers hungry for one thing shocking.
Considerably mockingly, amongst these sudden dishes are riffs on two of probably the most predictable starters you could find on numerous menus throughout Sydney and past. Creamy burrata and its trustworthy sidekick, tomato, are enlivened by a fiery house-made tadka — a mixture of contemporary and dried chillies — whereas a ceviche of kingfish balances its citrus edge with the earthy spice of curry leaf oil.
The restaurant’s co-owners, who’re additionally lifelong mates, have been each born in India, however lower their enamel within the hospitality business in high Sydney venues and inns. Whereas Government Chef Rakshit Sondhi instructions the kitchen, Maninder Singh, who studied on the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu Sydney earlier than taking up senior roles with the Hilton group, will take care of front-of-house operations.
Adorning the partitions of the eating room are portraits of Indian girls sporting vibrant saris. Sondhi and Singh needed their new enterprise to be “a celebration of empowerment and individuality, impressed by the resilience and freedom of girls in Indian tradition”. Past these artworks, the restaurant’s fitout — very like its menu — is a mixture of conventional cues, resembling dark-stained wooden panelling and mosaic flooring, and fashionable touches, most notably the bar’s eye-popping pink neon signal.
Along with its night dinner service, Madam Ji will even supply a tasty addition to Sydney’s more and more various array of bottomless brunches. On Saturdays and Sundays from noon, friends can get pleasure from free-flowing home wines for $79 or bottomless cocktails for $99 per individual for 2 hours.
Absorbing these drinks is a multi-course feast with sides, together with a starter of papadams served with signature dips and chutneys; the aforementioned tadka-spiked burrata; buttery, flakey parotta drizzled with chilli oil; and ribs of bhutta (a variant of white corn fashionable on the Indian subcontinent) served with sigdi hen tikka. The principle course stars Madam Ji’s signature butter hen with all of the trimmings, together with the all-important naan bread.
Discover Madam Ji at 13 Burton Avenue, Darlinghurst — open 5–9.30pm Monday–Thursday, 5–10pm Friday, 12–10pm Saturday and 12–9.30pm Sunday. Head to the venue’s website for extra particulars.
Photos: Katje Ford