Since opening in Might 2020, Musaafer at The Galleria in Houston has constantly delivered distinctive delicacies and drinks that exceed even the appreciable promise of its palatial area. The environs even appear to have their very own vitality, beginning with the darkened entry space, which appears to say, “This place accommodates secrets and techniques and wonders.”
First, some expectation-setting: Musaafer is an Indian restaurant that isn’t informal or low cost (however it may be enjoyable, as evidenced by the upcoming Bollywood Brunch). Contemplating the a la carte menu, the place entrées vary from $23 for the vegetarian Dal Musaafer to $65 for the beef vindaloo made with filet mignon, its closest peer may be equally bold Amrina in The Woodlands. Additionally, it could be remiss to not acknowledge the chefs who paved the way for upscale Indian delicacies in Houston, comparable to Kiran Verma of Kiran’s.
The genius behind Musaafer’s dishes is government chef Mayank Istwal, and the 12-course tasting menu for $175 plus a 20% service cost (gratuity) is the final word expression of his and his staff’s work. Cocktail or wine pairings might be added for an extra $75 per particular person. Diners can choose the common tasting menu or a vegetarian one (which entails solely swapping out a number of dishes, as a part of the common menu is vegetarian anyway). There are additionally a number of luxurious add-on dishes for extra price. This places Musaafter among the many most upscale tasting menu eating places within the Larger Houston space, comparable to March or th_prsrv. Houston Meals Finder was invited to strive the Spring 2024 tasting menu — and relaxation assured, that is an expertise that won’t depart you continue to hungry on the finish.
Oh, and for those who take pleasure in photographing your meals (particularly at eminently Instagrammable eating places like this), you’ll be delighted to know that the tables are outfitted with small lamps that facilitate wonderful cellphone photographs in the dead of night eating room. (No flash, please. It disturbs your fellow diners and cellphone flash images look horrible anyway.) You may even regulate the brightness or dimness on the lamps with only a contact.
Twelve dishes is lots, so I’ll cowl probably the most impactful bites of the night time. (Additionally, if I say every thing I would like a couple of dozen dishes, that is going to be a 3,000 phrase essay. Please, sir, I’ve a household.)
The tasting menu expertise begins with a Cumin & Truffle Macaron as an amuse bouche (a small-bite appetizer), and I ought to warn you that it’s going to vanish sooner than you anticipate, and you’ll miss it when it’s gone. I might have purchased a field of six to take house. The cumin-scented cookie halves had been as mild and ethereal as I’ve ever had, and the truffle pastry cream extremely decadent. Not that it was wanted (and never that I’m complaining), however the macaroon was topped with Kaluga caviar, too.
Shifting from the amuse bouche into the programs, you may hardly ask for a greater begin than the achapam, which appears like a Holi festival on a plate because of the scatterings of vibrantly coloured spices. An achapam is a “cookie” (the feel is probably extra like a crunchy pastry shell) made by dipping an iron mold into batter after which scorching oil (similar to bunuelos). The result’s a thin-edged, delicate cookie — historically out there at road distributors in India — that has numerous nooks and crannies. Musaafer elevates the achapam from mild snack to culinary art work by including roasted candy pepper and tamarind chutneys, avocado purée and sensible orange and pink edible flower petals.
The Coconut & Curry Leaf Oysters with coconut milk, ginger, curry leaf, chili oil and crunchy millet marked the purpose the place a number of dishes in the midst of the meal flagged a bit. The thick, pale inexperienced coconut sauce may need been higher served alongside one thing else. Because it was, it not solely didn’t add to the standard of the oysters, however fully distracted from them. The wedge of grilled squash was, by nature as a excessive water-content vegetable, just too massive and squishy for exterior sear and number of wonderful chutneys to reserve it. These few misses weren’t a dealbreaker for the general meal, however these had been the low factors.
In between these two dishes was a welcome respite: the Masala Papad with ahi tuna, achar (Indian pickle) emulsion, pickled serrano and ginger. After the excessively creamy sauce on the oysters, having this crunchy and delightful snack was the antidote I wanted. I loved the regular-menu model of this with contemporary tuna higher than the vegetarian model with pink bell peppers as a stand-in.
Nonetheless, it could be exceedingly tough for me to advocate the meat-eaters menu over the vegetarian one, as a result of the latter included certainly one of my favourite dishes of the night time. Musaafer’s vegetarian tackle ceviche was made with lychee as the primary ingredient. As a seafood stand-in, the feel was good, and the yuzu contributed the anticipated tanginess whereas coconut milk lent richness. The scattered bits of “tooti frooti” (sugar syrup infused with fruit and made into little candies) and polka dots of basil and chili oil added circus-like colour and enjoyable.
Then again, the common menu has unbelievable lamb chops dusted in coriander and chili, so how will you miss out on these? Clearly, the one right reply is to deliver a pal, and every of you order the 2 completely different menus.
Musaafer’s desserts are at all times enjoyable and fascinating, and the Mango Pate De Fruit — a creamy, tangy dessert in a deceptively reasonable form of an ice pop, stick and all — was no exception. What blew me away although was the candy-as-digestif served on the finish.
Named paan after the betel leaf and nut concoction usually proffered after dinner in India, Musaafer’s model was much more elegant. A white onyx field was dropped at the desk, and inside was a thick leaf of chocolate enrobed in gold for every visitor. It’s a mixture of ardour fruit chocolate, “digestive spices” and raspberry crisp and jogged my memory of two issues: the bowl of candied and plain anise seeds discovered on the exit of more-casual Indian eating places and what the top end result could be for those who made Fernet Branca-infused sweets. This digestif sweet is not going to be to everybody’s tastes, however I discovered it fully fascinating.
I may write a completely separate article in regards to the cocktail program beneath beverage director, Afzal Kaba, which is as fascinating and clever because the fare. The Musaafer website has a page that goes extra in depth into the beverage philosophy, however one of many focus areas deserves particular consideration. The Beekeeper cocktail program is comprised of 5 teams of substances, every of which features a native honey harvested inside 6.5 miles of the restaurant. The chosen ingredient group might be made into certainly one of 4 cocktail types: an Previous Usual, an “straightforward” Previous Usual (decrease proportion of spirit to the opposite substances), a Gold Rush (historically a whiskey bitter with bourbon, honey syrup and contemporary lemon juice) or a scorching toddy (maybe not widespread within the peak of Houston’s summer season, however undoubtedly welcome within the winter). I selected a College West with honey sourced in West College, Brugal 1888 rum and black walnut bitters, and it was the bitters which stored this drink out of too-sweet territory. I’d fortunately cruise by means of the opposite 4 ingredient mixtures. There are numerous other cocktails, together with a Gin & Tonic program. Each cocktail I’ve tried at Musaafer is considerate and interesting.
Service is exemplary. Each workers member who I’ve ever encountered at Musaafer are clearly well-educated in regards to the idea, dishes and drinks, and appears to take satisfaction in working there. Musaafer is a “deep” restaurant with regards to the meals, drinks, historical past and surroundings, so there are in all probability a thousand particulars to be taught. My server particularly was extremely type and affected person, and I nonetheless have a bit guilt that these qualities had been essential. My reservation was at 8:15 p.m. and I used to be quarter-hour late. I enormously underestimated how lengthy the tasting menu expertise could be. I used to be the final particular person out of the restaurant, and my server and some others ended up staying effectively after closing time. Nonetheless, there was not even the slightest whiff of impatience.
Don’t be postpone that the restaurant is positioned inside The Galleria. When you’ve settled on self-parking within the brown or purple garage or valet, Musaafer may be very handy to entry. Simply go into the south doorways going through Westheimer and the doorway is straight away on the fitting. From there, you’ll ascend the steps or take the elevator to the second flooring.
In case you take pleasure in and are in a position to partake within the crème de la crème of Houston’s eating scene, Musaafer is a restaurant that you shouldn’t miss. Istwal and his staff are crafting dishes with unbelievable drama. After the tasting menu expertise, an nearly overwhelming parade of artistry and craftsmanship, you may depart a bit dazed. Luckily, it wasn’t a dream, and when the subsequent seasonal tasting menu arrives, you are able to do it once more.
Phaedra Cook dinner has written about Houston’s restaurant and bar scene since 2010. She was an everyday contributor to My Desk journal (now closed) and was the lead restaurant critic for the Houston Press for 2 years, finally being promoted to meals editor. Cook dinner based Houston Meals Finder in November 2016 and has been its editor and writer ever since.